Alpha Hydroxy Acids
Typically, healthy skin is also well buffed from exfoliation, which helps remove dead skin cells and ushers new ones to the surface. Dermatologists recommend using a form of alpha hydroxy acid because it encourages exfoliation and “stimulates fibroblasts to produce collagen and elastin, which strengthen the skin,” says Jennifer Linder, MD, an assistant professor of dermatology at the University of California at San Francisco. Even sensitive skin can benefit, by using lactic acid. “It reduces bacteria, acts as a humectant, and is also beneficial for those who have hyperpigmentation,” Dr. Linder explains.
Antioxidants
Just as your body benefits from a healthy diet of colorful fruits and vegetables, your skin, not surprisingly, benefits from antioxidants, too. “You should constantly bathe your skin in antioxidants because they counter the effects of free radicals and inflammation from stress, pollution, and the sun — effects that can lead to wrinkles or disease,” says Helen M. Torok, MD, a dermatologist in Medina, Ohio. It may seem these days as if everything is an antioxidant, but stick with proven ones such as green tea, which contains the powerful polyphenol EGCG. The compound has been shown to protect skin from the harmful effects of UV rays when applied before sun exposure, and to correct damage and calm the skin after exposure. Green tea has also been shown to soothe sensitive skin.
Just as your body benefits from a healthy diet of colorful fruits and vegetables, your skin, not surprisingly, benefits from antioxidants, too. “You should constantly bathe your skin in antioxidants because they counter the effects of free radicals and inflammation from stress, pollution, and the sun — effects that can lead to wrinkles or disease,” says Helen M. Torok, MD, a dermatologist in Medina, Ohio. It may seem these days as if everything is an antioxidant, but stick with proven ones such as green tea, which contains the powerful polyphenol EGCG. The compound has been shown to protect skin from the harmful effects of UV rays when applied before sun exposure, and to correct damage and calm the skin after exposure. Green tea has also been shown to soothe sensitive skin.
Humectants
Humectants draw moisture into the skin and hold it there. One in particular, hyaluronic acid, is a darling of dermatologists because of its ability to hold 1,000 times its weight in moisture. Other effective humectants include sodium PCA, glycerin, and urea. “Glycerin and urea are especially effective when applied topically because they penetrate through the cell membrane that allows only water, glycerin, and urea,” Linder explains.
Humectants draw moisture into the skin and hold it there. One in particular, hyaluronic acid, is a darling of dermatologists because of its ability to hold 1,000 times its weight in moisture. Other effective humectants include sodium PCA, glycerin, and urea. “Glycerin and urea are especially effective when applied topically because they penetrate through the cell membrane that allows only water, glycerin, and urea,” Linder explains.
Lipids
“Lipids are an important ingredient to preserve the barrier that helps skin hold onto water,” says Leslie Baumann, MD, a dermatologist in Miami, Florida, and author of Skin Type Solutions. “They are also necessary in cell membranes and in the substance that surrounds the cells.” Lipids, or fats, are crucial in keeping skin moisturized. Look for lipids such as ceramides or stearic acid in lotions and creams.
“Lipids are an important ingredient to preserve the barrier that helps skin hold onto water,” says Leslie Baumann, MD, a dermatologist in Miami, Florida, and author of Skin Type Solutions. “They are also necessary in cell membranes and in the substance that surrounds the cells.” Lipids, or fats, are crucial in keeping skin moisturized. Look for lipids such as ceramides or stearic acid in lotions and creams.
Occlusives
Humectants do the job of drawing moisture into the skin, and occlusives help keep it there. Occlusives are used in thick ointments that seal the skin and promote the healing of cuts and burns, or that keep your skin from cracking or flaking during the winter, when the indoor heat is blasting. Classic examples of occlusives are petrolatum and lanolin, but if you're sensitive to these ingredients, look for dimethicone and shea butter.
Humectants do the job of drawing moisture into the skin, and occlusives help keep it there. Occlusives are used in thick ointments that seal the skin and promote the healing of cuts and burns, or that keep your skin from cracking or flaking during the winter, when the indoor heat is blasting. Classic examples of occlusives are petrolatum and lanolin, but if you're sensitive to these ingredients, look for dimethicone and shea butter.
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